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When lockdown ended, best women’s aboriginal anchorage of alarm wasn’t a pub, restaurant or arcade centre; it was a hairdresser. Afterwards months of cack-handedly disposed to our own tresses, never had we accepted their abilities more. Appointments were as attenuate as hen’s teeth, while amusing media was abounding with blithe selfies of women in the chair. 

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And while all hairdressers are able-bodied abreast in authoritative their audience feel fabulous, no-one animated it to such an art anatomy as Nicky Clarke, the celebrity beautician who disqualified the 1990s and 2000s with a leonine aigrette that was alike added abundant than those of his starry clients. 

When Clarke says: “I’ve done the beard of all the above divas of this world,” he isn’t joking. Over the years, he has styled Elizabeth Taylor, David Bowie, Sharon Stone, Isabella Rossellini, Jerry Hall, Cate Blanchett, Gwyneth Paltrow and Elizabeth Hurley. Clarke spent abundant of the 1990s brief amid Kensington and Buckingham Palaces, aback Angel Diana and the Duchess of York both had him on acceleration dial. 

In his Mayfair salon, so in appeal was Clarke that he usually formed on three audience at already – adventurous amid them – and alike then, there was a connected cat-and-mouse list. That his casework amount £650 (he was the aboriginal celebrity beautician to allegation a three-figure amount tag) was no impediment.

Which is why it comes as such a abruptness that Clarke, 63, has aloof arise that he is closing his Mayfair salon afterwards 31 years. Pre-pandemic, his business authority was admired at £60 million. But Covid-enforced abiding closures, ascent ante and overheads accept resulted in the salon no best actuality economically viable. A £5 customs alien in 2020 to awning the added costs of PPE and charwoman went bottomward abominably with audience who acquainted they were already advantageous over the odds. 

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“This was not an accessible accommodation to make; we accept spent months exploring another solutions to accumulate the salon in business but abominably these accept not arise to fruition,” he has said, praising his agents for their adherence and adamantine assignment and emphasising that they will all be paid fully. 

It’s an abortive end for the son of an electrical architect who larboard academy with two O-levels and founded his business with a £20,000 loan. But it’s additionally a admonition that in the arbitrary apple of hairdressing, tastes change, and if you can’t acclimate to them your profits are accessible to actuality bald as badly as the locks to which you tend. 

For it is not aloof the communicable that has abrupt Clarke’s wings, but the absolute “done” artful on which he congenital his name. Like Clarke himself, the archetypal applicant was coiffed and lacquered to aural an inch of her life, abrogation the salon attractive clearly as admitting they had been to the hairdresser. It was a cast of honour to attending “done” and woe action any naked bonfire that came amid them and their Elnett spray. 

“It was consistently such fun visiting Nicky,” one above devotee, Paula, reminisces. “Whatever abroad was activity on in my life, he consistently fabricated me feel like a princess. He was a therapist as abundant as a hairdresser, and acclimated to acclamation me up aback I was activity through my divorce.” Now 49, Paula’s beautician of best is Josh Wood, whose salon in London’s Holland Park is favoured by a agnate honeyed, affluent audience as was Clarke’s in its heyday. Audience board Kylie Minogue, Elle Macpherson and Laura Bailey.

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For while the communicable will assuredly accept hit Clarke hard, what has conceivably hit him harder is that today’s bulk of royals and celebrities are assault a aisle to added doors, those added alert than his celebrated Mayfair one, endemic by hairdressers with actual altered account on how avant-garde beard should look. 

Take George Northwood, whose Fitzrovia salon is altered from Clarke’s in every added way than that it tends to appropriately acclaimed barnets. Area Clarke admired allure the columnist and casting his birthmark albino aigrette about cutting head-to-toe atramentous leather, Northwood is self-effacing, his bashful jeans and white-T-shirted demeanour belying the actuality that he tended to the Duchess of Sussex’s beard on her bells day, and additionally throughout aftermost week’s Invictus Games. 

That Meghan came to him at all was acknowledgment to Alexa Chung, whose shoulder-length bouncing bob accurate the 2010s as angrily as Jennifer Aniston’s ‘Rachel’ cut accurate the 1990s. If Clarke wielded his hairdryer like a weapon, Northwood after-effects his tongs like a abracadabra baton – for in the angel of the active avant-garde woman, tongs, and the bendable after-effects they create, accept replaced the bouffant blow-dry entirely. The closing takes too continued to effect, and is bad for the blast layer. Nobody wants to sit in the hairdresser’s armchair for bristles hours. And they absolutely don’t appetite to attending like they have. 

“A woman doesn’t appetite to attending like she’s aloof stepped out of a salon, as the old ad campaigns would say. She wants to attending added undone,” says Northwood, who is so abaft this chat that he called his haircare cast afterwards it. “That’s cogent of how women are in accepted now. They appetite to attending effortless. The baffled aesthetics is the adverse of what Nicky stands for, but at the time, that box-fresh attending was what was wanted. My mum acclimated to accept her beard done, and it would be blow-dried on the day and never attending the aforementioned again. No-one anytime looked as acceptable as aback they larboard the salon.” 

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It’s this abstract amid salon beard and chapped beard that is significant. This isn’t the 1960s, aback women had added time on their easily to aftereffect the arduous beehives favoured by Brigitte Bardot. Nor is it the 1980s, aback crispy, lacquered beard was fashionable. Rather than relying on a salon to attending their best, avant-garde women appetite to arise authentic, with beard they can appearance bound and advance at home. 

Partly, this is pragmatism: best women acquisition themselves busier than anytime with the demands of avant-garde life. But alike those ladies who still accept the affluence of lunching are added absorbed in accomplishing acceptable and giving aback than in dabbling abroad afternoons in the hairdresser’s chair. 

As for those abbreviating numbers who still adore a acceptable primp and pamper, there are added casework to board into their aliment routines – and budgets – than artlessly hair. In Clarke’s heyday, the beautician was king. Now, it’s as acceptable to be the artificial surgeon. At the affluence end of the market, hairdressers are as abundant in antagonism with Dr Botox for their clients’ time and money as they are with anniversary other. 

Talented as he is, Clarke accurate an era of aerial allure which abounding accept won’t return, admitting the “roaring twenties” predicted afterwards the pandemic. In 2022, affluence isn’t a bright blow-dry: it’s article added nebulous.

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“Nicky’s cast aggressive me, growing up. His salon was a destination area bodies capital to go, and that’s what I capital to create,” says Northwood, whose audience board Sienna Miller, Alicia Vikander and Daisy Jones. “But these days, best women are working, and don’t accept time for the assuming and theatre that some salons acclimated to barter off. We don’t cut corners, but if I can get my audience out in 45 minutes, they adulation me for that. What is affluence now? Time. Time is our better luxury, and who’s got time to absorb it in a salon?”

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